This book is about me cooking my way through the iconic Soviet Diet Cookbook.
I discover the world of Soviet food, history and family traditions.
For each recipe, I speak to my grandmother to her stories.
It's a collection of wonderful, warm, sad, bizzare and funny stories coupled with over 80 recipes, including some from my grandmother and friends.
The book will be published on Amazon soon, if you would like me to let you know once it's published, please, let me know:
, @annakharzeeva @samovar_moscow or Anna Kharzeeva on Facebook.
This is to give you a taste of what the book is about
The deep-fried bad guy of the Soviet diet
Ponchiki (Russian doughnuts)
I’ve prepared a lot of healthy meals so far in this project: grechka, borscht, salads, and I think a big part of the Soviet diet was fairly healthy. There was plenty of porridge, soups, cranberry drinks… but it also had its “bad guys,” such as bologna, mayonnaise, candy and…doughnuts, which are called ponchiki in Russian.
There two types of ponchiki – ones with a hole in the middle, and ones without. The ones without a hole can also have filling inside.
I was certain that the ones with a hole were the Moscow type, hence the name – Moskovskie ponchiki, and the ones without were the St. Petersburg type, but my friends from the “northern capital” assure me that their ponchiki, like ours, have a hole in the middle. They just have a different name - pyshki. The only time I hear Muscovites say pyshka is when they’re rather rudely referring to a girl who is a little on the bigger side. I guess the implication is that she’s consumed a fair share of pyshki or ponchiki. In order to avoid this nickname, when my batch is ready, I’m sending it to my husband’s office.
I have fond memories of eating pyshki in St. Petersburg about 10 years ago. I went into a “pyshechnaya” (a café that specializes in pyshki), stood in line for a while and finally got a few pyshki, which my ignorant Muscovite self no doubt referred to as ponchiki, and ate them right there, standing up and drinking tea.
St. Petersburg has preserved more of the Russian café and bakery traditions than Moscow. The famous Sever (North) bakery still stands proudly on the city’s main street, Nevsky Prospect, and Muscovites often stop by there to get a few pastries to take home. They also still have bakeries where you can eat pastry and have a coffee at a table standing up, unlike in Moscow.
Having made my ponchiki, I can say that on the good news front, I’m definitely not going to gain any weight eating these. And neither is anyone in my husband’s office: they were a disaster!
Maybe I didn’t follow the recipe correctly, although as usual it’s not very detailed. Maybe the ponchiki could feel my reservations about anything deep-fried. Or maybe it’s because it suddenly began to snow the day I made them, and that put me off my game. In any case, the result is instead of fluffy round doughnuts, mine are completely flat - definitely cookies and not doughnuts. To make things worse, I took a little too long taking a photo of them frying in the pan and, yes, burned them too, filling the kitchen with smoke. What resulted from this Soviet diet experiment were burnt deep fried Christmas cookies – I’m so proud.
Speaking to Granny about it, she said: “We went to Leningrad [now St. Petersburg] to escape the First Moscow Youth Festival. There used to be a lot ponchechnye [doughnut shops] everywhere, and we would go every now and again. As for Leningrad, I don’t remember eating pastry there, and it’s been 58 years since I last went! I do remember when I was there with my mother, they were preparing a parade to celebrate the city’s 250th birthday, and were anticipating the leaders – Malenkov, Molotov, Kaganovich and the tagalong Shepilov. Then suddenly there was a delay in the start of the festivities, as the leaders were declared an ‘anti-Party group.’ Later the celebrations were restarted, but with a new leader – Khrushchev.”
Next time I feel like ponchiki, I’m going to get on the train and head straight to a “pyshechnaya” in St. Petersburg – to bring back memories of the 18-year-old me. And to remind myself of the taste of real ponchiki.
1 ½ cups flour; 2 Tbsp sugar; 1 Tbsp butter; 1 egg; ½ cup milk; ½ tsp baking soda; 100g oil or fat (for frying)
Combine flour and baking soda. Add a little ground cinnamon, and sift. In a separate bowl, combine sugar, butter and egg. Mix well. Slowly add milk to the egg mixture. Gradually pour egg mixture into flour mixture. Knead dough.
Roll dough out to a thickness of ½ cm. Cut into circles. Cut out the center of each circle, making a ring shape. Fry in hot oil. Sprinkle doughnuts with powdered sugar before serving.